Growing Raspberries in Cold Climates: Varieties and Easy Pruning
Raspberries are one of the easiest fruits to grow in a northern garden. They are self-fertile, spread on their own and produce heavily once established. The main decisions are which type to grow and how to prune it, and both are simpler than they look.
The short answer
- Summer-bearing (floricane) raspberries fruit in late July to early August on last year’s canes.
- Fall-bearing (primocane) raspberries fruit in September on this year’s canes, and pruning is as simple as cutting everything to the ground once a year.
- Plant dormant canes in spring, about 1 m apart.
- One variety is enough; raspberries pollinate themselves.
Based on the University of Saskatchewan raspberry fact sheet.
Summer-bearing or fall-bearing?
| Summer-bearing (floricane) | Fall-bearing (primocane) | |
|---|---|---|
| Fruit on | Second-year canes | First-year canes |
| Harvest | Late July to early August | September |
| Pruning | Remove only canes that have fruited | Cut all canes to the ground each spring or fall |
| Short-season risk | Low | Early fall frost can cut the harvest short |
In the shortest seasons, summer-bearing types are the safer bet, since September frost can end a fall crop early. Where frost holds off into late September, fall-bearing types are wonderfully low-maintenance.
Varieties recommended by USask
- Boyne (red, summer): the industry standard. Productive, dependable and rarely bothered by fireblight.
- Festival (red, summer): thornless canes, firm fruit.
- Steadfast and Red Mammoth (red, summer): University of Saskatchewan varieties; Red Mammoth has large fruit.
- Honeyqueen (yellow, summer): recommended for backyards.
- Red River, Double Delight, Autumn Bliss (red, fall-bearing).
- Royalty (purple): zone 3, backyard use.
Planting
- Choose full sun and well-drained soil. Raspberries hate wet feet.
- Plant dormant canes in spring, about 13 to 15 cm deep, roughly 1 m apart.
- Water thoroughly until established.
- Plan for spreading: canes sucker and fill in a patch. A mowed path or edging around the bed keeps them in place.
Pruning made simple
Summer-bearing: after harvest, cut the canes that fruited this year down to the ground. They will not fruit again. Keep the green canes that grew this year; they carry next summer’s crop. Thin to the strongest canes if the row is crowded.
Fall-bearing: cut every cane to the ground in late fall or early spring. New canes grow and fruit the same year.
Pests and problems
- Cane borers: remove dead canes in fall, where borers overwinter.
- Powdery mildew: thrives in humid, crowded rows. Thin canes for air flow.
- Fireblight: cut out infected tissue and go easy on nitrogen fertilizer.
- Viruses: buy certified virus-free plants and remove sick plants.
Harvest
Berries are ripe when they slide off the core with a gentle tug. Pick every couple of days in season, into shallow containers so they do not crush, and refrigerate or freeze them quickly.
Keep reading
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the best raspberry for cold climates?
Boyne is the prairie standard: productive, dependable and rarely bothered by fireblight. Festival, Steadfast and Red Mammoth are also recommended.
How do I prune summer-bearing raspberries?
After harvest, cut the canes that fruited this year to the ground and keep this year's new canes for next summer's crop.
How do I prune fall-bearing raspberries?
Cut all canes to the ground in late fall or early spring. New canes grow and fruit the same year.
Do raspberries need a second variety to pollinate?
No. Raspberries are self-fertile, so one variety is enough.